In the videos they also mention the old ATF is dark, not clean... So, we may need to change it more often.

In my opinion, it's not necessary. ATF is dark which means ATF have done its job to clean the transmission. (ATF could become dark even after just several months' usages)

These transmissions are very reliable. With some ATF changes on them, they will not only be reliable, but also keep performing like new conditions!!!

Of course, if you keep pushing these cars to the limits, you better change ALL THE FLUIDS(not only ATF) more often!!!
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Today I did ATF change for my daughter's 2010 M35X... (Only drain and fill)

Again, I asked my daughter to warm up the ATF a bit before the change. So, I could get 4 full quarts of the old ATF out which were slightly more fluid than what I did for GSF yesterday.
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My daughter will drive her old Nissan to her university soon which is 650km away from our current home...

When both my wife and I studied for our master degrees, we drove our 1988 MX-6 from New York to Missouri twice to visit our friends... One was in summer and the other was in winter. The trip was 1600km long. So, the round trip would be 3000km!!!

We also encountered a snow storm during the trip in the winter. Now I really think that 7 year old Mazda was very reliable!!! We had driven that Mazda for 2 years and about 50K km(a lot of long highway trips) but it never broke down on the road...
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I think I tuned my Ohlins suspension too firm... (Actually I tuned my previous suspensions such as KW V3, Koni, PSS10 much more firm than my current Ohlins suspension!!!)

I admit even though my GSF is a better car and the springs from current Ohlins are stiffer, with softer damper settings I DO think my GSF is less fun or direct than my previous G35S.

Actually M4 competition is even softer than my GSF with Ohlins. I should have not tuned these suspension SO FIRM. I think I should let dampers to do their own main task which reduces the bounces from springs. I should have not let dampers to do springs' task which supports car weight and provides more direct handling.

If I set the dampers to very firm, those dampers will feel like very stiff springs which are even much more stiff than the current 16/12K springs!!! (It's very fun on tracks but on public roads it's too stiff and uncomfortable)
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I just talked to FIGS again... (I have to say that FIGS supports are really great!!!)

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Dampers' click setting could change how fast turn-in but toe settings are more effective.

They also suggest that it should be 5 less clicks from the hardest on the front always which means it should be stiffer on the front.

They also said that the more stiff on the front the faster turn-in since less weight-transfer on the rear and less grip on the rear. (Not sure about this part!!! This is totally opposite from my experience... )
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Of course, they also mentioned there was NO PREFECT SETTING!!! (Like I said)

Everyone has his/her own preference(some like stiffer and some like softer) and what type of roads you drive your car on...
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The below is what FIGS said about weight-transfer vs dampers...

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I just did the second drain & fill ATF for my GSF...

This time I drove my GSF a lot longer (1.5 hours) before the ATF replacement. So, I drained full 4 quarts of old ATF. Last time I drove my GSF only for 20 minutes before the ATF replacement and drained 3.8 quarts of old ATF...
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I have done the below maintenance tasks for my GSF so far...

1. Oil change
2. ATF change
3. Air & cabin filter change
4. Differential & torque vectoring fluid change
5. Brake fluid change

I will need to do the below maintenance tasks in the future... (Currently my GSF's mileage is only 50K kms)
1. Brake pads (estimate in 100-125K kms)
2. Coolant change (120K kms)
3. Spark plug change (100K kms)

That's all the maintenance tasks I have to do for my GSF. Like what I said these Japanese cars including some performance cars like my GSF are very reliable and it's very easy to do maintenance tasks on them even though I'm just an old computer developer and not a mechanic...
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