[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴

在距離我這篇[美皮日骨] John Lofgren Engineer Boots 牛皮長靴剛好滿三年之際,也等於我這雙因為尺碼太大而割愛給老外之後,正準備上官網購買合適尺碼的新鞋之時,好巧不巧竟然看到了這雙世界唯一的版本,尺碼也剛剛好是我的尺碼,一咬牙之下,變花了等同是新鞋價,但是確是第三手的長靴。

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 這雙輾轉世界數回,過程其實相當有趣,這原本是John Lofgren在2011年到2012年之間, 委託工廠利用Horween CXL馬皮來製作給自己穿的,也沒有任何量產計畫,但是因為他覺得尺碼有點大,於是幾年後在2015年丟到ebay上競標,當時的VEB大神也特地發了一篇文介紹這個非常罕見的版本(http://vintageengineerboots.blogspot.com/2015/10/rare-john-lofgren-engineer-boots-in.html) 因為當時從日本寄到第二個主人手上時,並沒有用其他的外盒包裝,導致鞋盒運送當中就已經破損。

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 也就是說這雙鞋已經從日本跑到美國,最後再跑到台灣來。關於當年John Lofgren在ebay上刊登的全文在此:

“This is a pair of my personal engineers boots that I made in Horween CXL horsehide. These probably date back from 2011 or 2012. There is no plan on producing these anytime soon so I implore you don't email me asking for them at this time. I'm only selling these size 10 because I'm preferring the size 9.5 without an insole these days. Plus, I have a lot of boots, and because of my work I need to wear a lot of test samples to check for comfort and construction durability. My boots are entirely made in Japan, with sourced parts from Japan, USA, England, Germany and Italy going into them. I only use Vibram soles that are made in the USA, never the ones made in China. These boots are not not cheap, but I feel it's a fair price considering the high quality workmanship (and paying the people for their dedication to their craft) and materials that go into them. Judging by the excellent condition these are in I'm sure I wore them less than 10 times. I'd appreciate it if the winning bidder would pay within two days after the auction ends.

Size: 10
Outsole length: 12 inches
Outsole width: 4.5 inches

As a result of being in the apparel/footwear business I end up with more stuff than I can wear. Some I buy, some are given to me, some are limited runs and some are samples that never went into production. I also have odds and ends I've collected over the years and as I grow older I either have no need for them now or my tastes have changed. Either way it's a good chance to pick up something unusual from Japan. I make some space in my home or office and you get something neat. Win-win situation.”

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 其實原本有中斷再買一雙JL的念頭,無奈被B大的JL戰隊給震撼了一下,覺得不收一雙來complete me,實在過意不去

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 很明顯可以看出整體狀況也很好,第二手最竟然也沒甚麼穿,難不成當初只是想要買來收藏而已?

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 久違兩年多的JL長靴,不管怎麼看還是覺得排的進現代復古類長靴的Top 5

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 後側屁股一樣有個古法製做的洞

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 一樣是標配的Vibram 705 sole + 700 heel,從外線來看可以看的出來沒甚麼磨損

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 內側部分也都是標配, Storm welt一樣的沒辦法像一般固特異沿條那樣的整平

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 看了說明才知道五金是東京製作的鍍黃銅不鏽鋼合金,連Shank都是日本製品

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 針車上也是很高穩定性的展現

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 沿條收合與鞋跟打磨也一樣高水準

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ Storm welt的防水性有人說比固特異還好一點,Horween CXL馬皮的油脂量也蠻高的,整體皮面質感跟其他容易出現乾裂痕的皮紋相比,多了較為細緻秀氣的紋理

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 硬要說個人比較不愛的大概就是筒身開口比較大,即使調節環拉緊穿褲子還是得注意不能穿太窄,否則無法自然的蓋住

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 屁股洞的特寫....純粹只是個情懷展現

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 鞋墊上的可愛鹿頭壓印,看來這雙除了皮革不一樣之外,其他細節上跟量產版的並無兩樣

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 現在版本的內標是白底布標,是用老式力織機編織而成的布料,這早期版本的黑色布標不確定是否也是用老式力織機製作

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
↑ 怎麼看還是百看不膩
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實穿圖:

[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
[天下無雙] John Lofgren Horween CXL馬皮長靴
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心得:

尺碼選正確後,穿著感就比較準確,也如同我當初講的由於腳背接近腳踝的空間太大,即使穿了合適的尺碼,對我而言行走時仍然不太跟腳,腳感扎實但是可能不太適合我的腳型,其他做工質感上也依然高水準演出,沒有辜負了三萬台幣這個等級的價值,所以在這個價位區段上仍然是個不錯的選擇,搞不好過幾年後我又想買其他顏色來湊戰隊。
文章關鍵字
storm welt 也是固特異製法的一種,只是延條造型不同~
可能一時筆疾而飛忘了吧

Chliven wrote:
storm welt...(恕刪)


是啊,所以英文介紹是寫Goodyear storm welt
還是我內文有誤導了⋯⋯
L胖的敗家研究所 https://loveusame.com
是也沒誤導這麼嚴重啦
應該是說固特異是製法,通常會有strom welt跟flat welt這兩種延條造型差異
而storm welt因為有皮牆所以防水更佳
您應該是這樣的意思吧~

Chliven wrote:
是也沒誤導這麼嚴重...(恕刪)


是啊,這也不是什麼特別作法,加上三年前就分享過同款不同色,就沒在特意去強調,倒是大家很愛用沿條接合的地方來當作製程細不細緻,所以我就只講了strom welt是不太有辦法像一般沿條那樣壓平平整
L胖的敗家研究所 https://loveusame.com

loveusame wrote:
在距離我這篇[美皮...(恕刪)

好久不見開箱文.果然是‘毒’一無二,獲此靴心中的雀躍難掩! CXL 處理後的皮革舊化後真的很有味道.
loveusame wrote:
在距離我這篇[美皮...(恕刪)


人家發明靴型褲不就為了這個而存在嗎? 但現在因為流行窄褲管但還硬塞這種靴子的穿法倒是蠻常見又詭異的! lol 當然樓主搭得很好看!
小弟可以酸一下嗎?

為什麼製鞋老闆訂做自己要穿的鞋子,尺寸會不合???

我無法理解也

+5 好靴好靴

但是為什麼T-Shirt要紮進去呢




ig:jericholee fb:Jericho Lee
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